Description: This thick and structured fabric would be ideal for a coat or a sculptural piece that requires a lot of structure. Seen as both sides could be used a reversible garment is something that could be explored.

Textile/Material: A very thick and structured material with a rough surface. The white stiff moss contrasts with the black wool as it sprouts through. The underside of the fabric reveals the bright white flax fibers laid in one smooth direction pierced in a gridded formation.

Impact on Planet/People/Animals: The black wool base fabric was a deadstock leftover material sourced from the University of the Arts London. Flax is a more sustainable fiber alternative and could be combined with wool to reach a certain quality. It is grown quickly and easily, requires very few chemicals and does not require irrigation during its cultivation.

Construction:

• Composition: 50% WO, 15% LI, 30% WM, 7% PA
• Raw Materials: Wool, Flax, Mohair, Polyamide
• Coloration: Piece dyed
• Sourcing: UAL and Meaningful Crafts
• Weave: Weave + Non Woven

Circularity: The most sustainable way to recycle a fabric with various different raw materials like this one would be to shred the fabric into small pieces and break it down into fibers. It can then be carded which aligns the fibers and makes them ready to be felted again. Adding virgin fibers can improve its quality.

Recipe: Three layers of flax fiber were laid out on the inside of the base fabric. Using an industrial needle punching machine at studio Boldwool, I passed the fabric three times through the machine. I ensured to keep the white side facing up towards the needles so that they would punch the fibers downwards through the base fabric. To create the creases, I folded and pinned the fabric in a repeated pattern, then sewed them shut using a sewing machine.